♡♡!! firstly (i dont think u meant this but) if ure struggling with fashion ideas i recommend following haute couture blogs like @skaodi or @102runway i personally love this stuff but if u dont want ur characters to look so extra im sure there are blogs for u also!
now onto folds and shit. honestly i have lots of …vague ideas abt it but its something hard to explain coherently bc everything is connected to everything so uh. yea another thing that u have to feel out for urself mostly. generally what u have to think abt while drawing clothes are: material, thickness, shape of thing its draped over, how tightly it fits, what its cutting is like.
softer materials like woolly sweaters tend to have much softer curves esp when its thicker kind. it also reacts to gravity more, weighty clothes will have folds that kinda curve downwards. while more stern materials like suits (which in general are usually fitted to the person and made in a way so its rly clean-looking and has very little folds) n shirts have probably less folds in general and more straight lines, if its loose enough u might be able to see a start and an end point that define the fold, like when u stretch a towel with 2 hands theres a straight line of fold from one hand to the other if u understand me.
generally dont go overboard with folds, imo the first thing to get right is the shape of the clothing; how it falls from or fits to the body. then use folds moderately. usually its not needed to draw the whole length of the fold from point A to point B bc it feels too much to the eye,, its something u have to feel out for urself. its the most efficient if u can draw them with one quick stroke so its clean n nice. also look out for how soft it is, i often draw folds w one stroke then half-erasing the end of it bc it flattens.
to the seven boys who keep achieving, thank you for staying, thank you for loving, thank you for growing, thank you for six wonderful years. to more years of laughter, love, music, & joy, happy anniversary! ♡
… AND THAT IS THE WAY I MAKE FIRE! Simple and messy “how to gry”. I will add quick smoke tutorial / step by step too Just wait. \o/
EDIT: Sorry for small images >8C I am not good with tumblr image sizes and I have never understood them. But by copying the image URL you can see bigger sized images!
Anonymousashggsdg i love your soldier and mercy pic so much !!!! what settings did you use for the lineart if you dont mind me asking? i noticed it was a kind of crayon-y look which looks super awesome !!!! i dont think i saw anything like that on your sai settings post
Hello thanks for sending me an ask! My apologies for replying so late! I only use the brush and pencil tool to draw and paint. Both of these are default brushes that come with SAI, I just tweaked the settings a bit :^’) For coloring I use the HSV and RGB slider to adjust the colors i use. It’s a life saver for me! Feel free to send me any further asks!
I’ve had a general idea what these things did but wasn’t completely sure what their specific functions were. I decided to sit down and figure it out, and I have thrown together a short reference guide for anyone who is confused about them. I know there are multiple translations of SAI floating around, so if some of these terms don’t sound familiar, just know that I’m talking about the three settings that appear under the texture in the brush tool settings (note that this won’t apply to any tool types except for brushesand watercolor brushes).
I don’t claim to be an expert so if you find I’ve made a mistake, let me know so I can update it, thanks! :3
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BLENDING (Color Blending)
This controls how readily the brush will inherit any colors you are painting over with it. For example, a 0% blending setting will pick up no existing colors, treating it as if you were painting on a transparent layer. A 100% blending setting will ONLY pick up existing colors (provided there are any). So at 100%, the color you’re using won’t even show up, unless you move to a transparent area. Blending is not affected by transparent pixels, so if you’re drawing on a blank layer it will have no effect.
So you can see from this example that the color I’m using gets harder to paint as the blending increases and more of the existing green is absorbed, until at 100% it is just completely turning green.
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DILUTION (Opacity Mix)
This controls how readily the brush will draw on a blank (transparent) part of the layer. A 0% Dilution will result in the brush painting very easily onto a blank surface, while a brush with 100% dilution will literally not paint on blank parts of the layer at all. Dilution is ONLY affected by transparent pixels. So it won’t do anything if the whole layer is already filled in (even with white). Dilution can be thought of as the inverse of the Blending setting in some ways.
So in this example, you can see that as dilution approaches 100%, the color I’m painting with basically becomes invisible. In fact, if you were to switch to binary color mode and look at this layer, there would literally be nothing there anymore!
Keep this in mind - if you ever can’t paint for some reason, check your dilution setting, it might have gotten accidentally bumped to 100!
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PERSISTENCE
This one goes hand-in-hand with blending. Basically, it controls how easily a brush shifts color as you are blending from one color to another. Rather, how long it “persists” if you will. Like blending, Persistence is only really relevant when painting over existing color so it’s mostly unaffected by transparent pixels. Basically, the higher the persistence, the longer it will take for the color to shift as you make a stroke, and subsequently, from which color to which other color it is shifting is dependent on the blending setting.
So for this example I’ve done the same test with three different levels of blending. I turned off all pressure sensitivity (actually I just used my mouse) to emphasize the effects in a controlled environment:
If blending is at 0%, persistence fails to have any real effect. With pressure on, there is only the difference of having to push harder, but the results will be the same as far as I can tell.
At a happy medium of 50%, persistence increase causes the orange that the brush is picking up to last longer as it goes into the green, until it never shifts to blue at all.
At 100% blending, there was never any blue in the first place, because as we already know, full blending causes you to only pick up existing color. So the persistence setting changes only how fast the orange changes to green.
Persistence is dependent upon the blending settings, so having them somewhere in the middle will probably produce the most optimal results.
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CONCLUSION
Ultimately how you use these is up to you, and is largely dependent on what kind of brush you’re making and what it will be used for. And most of these settings are meant to be used together in unison, so play around with them a lot!
If you are confused, or not sure what settings you want or what settings you should be using, a safe bet is to put them all at about 50% - that will produce fairly average results that are easy to work with, and it’s easy to remember in case you want to experiment but don’t want to forget your settings in case you decide to switch back.
